The Stan Family Part 4 - Uzbekistan

As I rode up to the Sharghun, Uzbekistan border there were several trucks queued, no cars, and very few people, I thought great, this should be quick and easy, how wrong I was. I was greeted warmly by the friendly army personnel, handed a form which I promptly filled out and together with my passport passed to the army official behind a computer whom told me to wait, and wait I did, three and one half (3.5) hours. At first there was no explanation for the long wait, but as time passed the official indicated that there was a computer issue. During the wait my panniers and luggage were emptied, inspected and repacked, I walked across the border and purchased insurance, returned and continued to wait. Then bingo, the computer was back in action and within minutes I was on my way, riding in Uzbekistan.

After the prolonged border crossing there was no way I would make my intended destination during day light hours that day, so I stayed overnight at the small town of Dehqanabad. The following day I visited Ak-Saray Palace and Kok-Gumbaz Mosque, several sights of interest in the city of Shahrisabz, but upon arrival there was a major refurbishment in progress, the surrounding roads had been dug up and it was a dusty construction site. I snap a few quick photos dodging earthmoving machinery in the process and continued on my way.

 

I arrived mid-afternoon at a key Silk Road city at the crossroads leading to China, India and Persia, bringing trade and artisans to Samarkand, the city was high on my list of places to visit on my travels. I stayed several days in Samarkand, recharged on some hearty, delicious food and walked the streets visiting notable sights of interest including Shaki Zinda.

 

Amir Temur.

 



Bibi Khanym Mosque.

Bibi Xanom.

 

The Registan.

My next highly anticipated destination was the city of Bukhara and after a five (5) hour, 280 kilometre ride in temperatures up to thirty nine (39) degrees I was relived to settle into Rustam Zuxzo a very comfortable little guest house. Again able to recharge with delicious guest house food, my evening meal was five (5) course, two (2) salad dishes, soup, main meal, tea, bread and fruit desert, good value at about $5.00. The breakfast included in the room rate was also delicious and provided good nourishment and a nutritious start to the day.

I walked the streets of Bukhara in temperatures around thirty eight (38) degrees visiting more notable Uzbekistan sights including The Ark.

 

Kalom Minaret.

 

 

Kalom Mosque.

 



 





  Lyabi Haus.

 

And numerous Madrassas.

 

 

 

After four (4) days in Bukhara replenished with good food I was ready to move on, finding fuel for my motorcycle was a different story though. Benzine is difficult to obtain in Uzbekistan, most cars run on natural gas, petrol stations usually don’t sell benzine. There is a black market for benzine, and to find a seller can be difficult. In Bukhara I queued at a petrol station for one (1) hour with about sixty (60) cars before they opened for a short time to sell benzine. I purchased benzine on the side of the road at black market stalls every other time I needed fuel, a small table with a plastic soft drink bottle on the road side providing the only clue to a benzine seller.

I stopped at a road side table on one occasion, photographed the friendly men at the house with the table then purchased benzine from the woman at the house on the opposite side of the road.

My next destination was Khiva and after another thirty eight (38) degree day riding two hundred (200) kilometres of average road and two hundred (200) kilometres of new four (4) lane expressway through sandy desert landscape I settled into another small guest house just outside the UNESCO world heritage listed walled museum city site in Khiva.

I wound down my Uzbekistan visit with three (3) days in Khiva eating more hearty food including delicious guest house home-made apricot jam with breakfast and tasty dinners at a nearby restaurant. I was also invited to, accepted, and conduct a filmed television interview, riding my motorcycle up the street and then sitting down to answer questions about my travels and Uzbekistan as a tourist destination (it must have been a quiet news day in Khiva), the eighteen (18) year old son of the guest house owners dressed in his best clothes and provided translation during the interview. I gave the guest house a plug during the interview and was rewarded with an afternoon meal of baked fish, fruit and tea. I spent my days visiting the walled museum city sights.

 

A sixty (60) kilometre early morning ride had me exiting Uzbekistan at the Shawat border crossing, then entering another country on Mick’s Moto Adventure.