European Transit - Bosnia and Hercegovina

Continuing west I entered Bosnia and Hercegovina, the temperature was low, about 3 degrees and the landscape was hidden in fog. The road was winding and I rode through many tunnels, thankfully there was little traffic on the road because it was slow going, hilly terrain, a low temperature, fog and no sunshine equated to ice on the road. Riding a motorcycle on icy roads is no fun, at one stage I pulled out to overtake a car, twisted the throttle, lost traction and the bike rear end stepped out, then as I pulled in front of the car I saw a long white section of road ahead, more ice, I hit the hazard light switch and eased off the throttle to lower my speed, apologizing in my head to the car driver behind for my ill-timed passing manoeuvre. It was a nerve racking ride into the B & H capital Sarajevo and I was relieved to get off the bike without incident.

 

Sarajevo is the largest city in B & H, situated on the Miljacka River in a valley surrounded by the Dinaric Alps, fog and cold weather was a constant during my two (2) day stay. That did not stop me walking the city centre and visiting numerous sights though. Sarajevo has attracted international attention several times throughout its history. In 1914, the city’s Latin Bridge was the site of the assassination of the Archduke of Austria, Franz Ferdinand which sparked World War I.

 

For nearly four years, from 1992 to 1996, the city suffered the longest siege of a city in the history of modern warfare (1,425 days long) during the Bosnian War. During a visit to the Srebrenica Museum I viewed several short films showing footage from the siege and other Bosnian Wars atrocities including the July 1995 Srebrenica Massacre, also known as the Srebrenica Genocide, more than 8,000 Bosniaks mainly men and boys were killed in and around the town of Srebrenica.

A short walk through the narrow streets and laneways of Sarajevo enabled me to visit to the Orthodox Cathedral and Sebilj fountain. A surprising highlight in Sarajevo was the food, after a young guy working at the hotel recommended I dine at Restaurant Devi I enjoyed some of the best food I have eaten during my adventure, it was so good I ate there both nights during my stay. Veal & vegetable soup, warm homemade bread and goulash was delicious on night one (1), night two (2) I ate vegetable soup, warm homemade bread and a melt in the mouth steak with vegetables, definitely the best steak I have had since leaving home.

 

Mostar was my next city stopover in Bosnia and Hercegovina, Mostar is situated on the Neretva River. Mostar was named after the bridge keepers (mostari) who in the medieval times guarded the Stari Most (Old Bridge) over the Neretva. The Old Bridge, built by the Ottomans in the 16th century, is one of Bosnia and Herzegovina's most recognizable landmarks, and is considered one of the most exemplary pieces of Islamic architecture in the Balkans.

I walked the narrow cobbler stoned laneways and over the Stari Most in the Old City, also viewing an original Ottoman house and local mosque.

 

Close to Mostar I visited the village of Blagaj which was the former seat of Duke Stjepan who ruled Hercegovina from a fortress perched on a peak above the Buna River Springs. The Sultan found this place so magical that during the 16 Century he ordered a Dervish Monastery be built right at the source.

 

After two (2) days in Mostar I continue towards the next country on my European transit, before exiting Bosnia and Hercegovina I had a short diversion and a quick visit to the town of Medjugorje. Since 1981, it has become a popular site of religious pilgrimage due to reports of apparitions of the Virgin Mary to six local Catholics. Our Lady of Medjugorje is the title given to the apparition by those who believe that Mary, mother of Jesus, has been appearing from 24 June 1981 until today to six children, now adults, in Medjugorje. Our Lady of Medjugorje has a strong following among Catholics worldwide. Medjugorje has become one of the most popular pilgrimage sites for Catholics in the world and has turned into Europe's third most important apparition site, where each year more than 1 million people visit.