Unforgettable Iran - Part 2

I was sitting road side fifteen (15) kilometres out of Shiraz, the temperature was about 38 degrees and my motorcycle would not start. I reach for my water bottle which was strapped to my black roll bag, knowing that as is always the case the water would be hot enough to make a cup of tea, without any shade and preferring a cool drink I decided to turn the bike around and roll back down the road verge to a small shop I had just past, hoping for shade and a cool drink. I was in luck on both counts, so I sat down on a chair and contemplated my next move. The shop keeper had noticed I had past his shop slowly, stopped up the hill, then rolled back down, not looking like his regular clientele he soon became inquisitive and started speaking to me in Farsi, I did not understand a word he said but I gestured that my motorcycle would not start and I would need a truck to take me to Shiraz. He seemed to understand and said “no problem”, I was going nowhere so I made myself comfortable and waited. After my experience in Mashhad I was confident someone would come past and help.

About one hour later two men aged in their twenties stopped road side in front of me, walked into the shop and purchased a drink each, then stood consuming the drinks and smoking cigarettes while chatting to the shop keeper and looking at the strange character sitting near a big motorcycle. The men then approached me and offered to help, with only a little common language between us, we managed to establish I needed a truck to transport my motorcycle to a mechanic in Shiraz. After making several phone calls, one of the men named Mohammad came closer to me, made another phone call, chatting in his native Farsi language to the person he had called, then handed his phone to me, I said hello, not knowing what reply I would receive, to my surprise and in perfect English I received a “hi” from a gentleman named Reza, followed by a detailed introduction indicating he had a Ph.D in Teaching English as a Foreign Language, taught at a Shiraz university, was Mohammad’s brother in law and that I would be provided with all necessary assistance to transport my motorcycle and myself to Shiraz. After arriving in Shiraz and finding a mechanic, who provided a diagnosis that was not good news, he said it was a fuel pump problem and he could not source parts nor fix my motorcycle, he also said the best option was to freight the bike to Tehran, the capital city of Iran for repair.

Now fairly late in the day my focus turned to accommodation, I gestured this to Mohammad and showed him my written notes with a couple of hotel names and address listed, also mentioning my cost budget. His reply was that the hotels I had chosen were not in a good area, he then made two more phone calls, during the second call he passed the phone to me, it was Reza again, Reza then communicated to me that Mohammad was offering to take me to his family home to stay while investigating motorcycle repair options. Again not knowing what to expect, I accepted his offer and that started twelve (12) thoroughly enjoyable days that provided me with many of the most memorable highlights of my trip to date. Mohammad and his younger sister Uranus are the only two siblings still living in the family home, Mohammad’s father Majid and mother raised eight (8) children in the home so there was more than enough room for one (1) “tourist” me. During my stay I met five (5) of Mohammad’s seven (7) sisters, (yes, 7 girls, 1 boy) and their husbands and children.

Although there was little in the way of common language between us, I was made to feel welcome by everyone, there was barely a quiet moment with the wonderful close family members calling past regularly for a visit or a meal and for me, eating delicious home cooked meals was a most enjoyable change. During my stay with the family I was invited to attend several functions including a farewell get together for the family and friends of Majid’s brother who was travelling to Mecca. The afternoon included prayers for those inclined, a feast including fresh fruit, a delicious chicken dish, rice, bread and tea to drink, attendees then formed a motorcade procession to transport Majid’s brother to the bus station, which would then transport him to the airport for his flight to Mecca. Mecca is the birth place of Muhammad and the site of Muhammad’s first revelation of the Quran. Mecca is regarded as the holiest city in the religion of Islam and a pilgrimage to it known as the Hajj is obligatory for all able Muslims.

I also attended a wedding, Mohamad’s sister Neda and her husband Vahid invited me to the wedding of their friend Amir. It was a great night, Vahid’s university friends and their families were very welcoming, as well as the wedding proceedings the night included dancing, a delicious meal and a lot of laughs.

 

 

Neda and Vahid were great company, I stayed a night in their apartment after the late night wedding, went to Vahid’s football game, and the three of us also had an evening visit to a local sight, Quran Gate. Vahid owns and manages a new car sales dealership, he also sells restored Paycan utility (utes) vehicles. I had seen these vehicles by the truck load, literally, semi-trailers carrying resprayed bodies somewhere to be reassembled, and I also photographed a nice looking customised version.

 



I also had personal guided tours to local sights with other family members, Uranus and her cousin took me to visit the Hafez memorial, Abo Taleb guided me through Vakhilis Bazaar, Vakil Mosque, Citadel of Karim Khan e Zand and Vakil Bath.

 



During my stay in Shiraz Mohammad and I also did a little partying, including celebrating the birthday of Masi, the sister of his girlfriend Shokrah, together with their sister Rosita and Masi’s teenage daughter Alma who translated Farsi to English for me during the night, the six of us ate snack food and birthday cake, played music and danced, and it proved to be a great night.



 

Mohammad owns and runs a business selling excavators, his office is about one (1) kilometre from where I broke down, he was on his way home from work when he stopped for a drink and assisted me. The office is also close to the Ancient City of Persepolis, so I took the opportunity to visit the site one afternoon while Mohammad was at work. Takht-e Jamshid, meaning “City of Persians” was the ceremonial capital of the Achaemenid Empire (c. 550 – 330 BC). The earliest remains of Persepolis date from around 515 BC. It exemplifies the Achaemenid style of architecture and UNESCO declared the citadel of Persepolis a World Heritage site in 1979. The buildings at Persepolis include three general groupings, military quarters, the treasury, and the reception halls and occasional houses for the King. Noted structures include the Great Stairway, the Gate of Nations, Apadana Palace, The Throne Hall and Tombs of Kings.

 



Mohammad and I eventually got down to the business of motorcycle repair, visiting many motorcycle workshops before eventually finding an excellent mechanic named Saeed, whom together with his brother repaired my motorcycle so I was able to continue my travels.

 

After having such a great time in Shiraz with Mohammad and his family I was reluctant to move on, but with only a thirty (30) day visa and still a lot of kilometres to travel it was time to get back on the road and head West towards the city of Esfahan.