Thursday, 10 July 2014

Open Plains, Mountain Ranges, Lakes, Beautiful Scenery at Every Turn. Who Needs Roads - Mongolia Part 1


After obtaining a Mongolian visa in about 20 minutes while in Bangkok Thailand, I expected the border crossing into Mongolia to be equally straight forward, not quite. On approach to the first booth after exiting China I was warmly greeted in English by a beautiful female soldier in full camouflage uniform and combat boots wearing designer sunglasses. She explained the process and pointed out the buildings housing Immigration and Customs that I had to present myself, so after receiving a slip of paper from the booth the glamorous solider guarded I proceeded to the next building and received an arrivals stamp in my passport. The Customs booth was next, fast and easy, it was about one (1) kilometre up the road where things got a little confusing. I entered a bigger Customs building and asked if I was required to complete any more forms after already doing so at the Customs booth, after initial blank stares followed by a phone call my passport and motorcycle registration papers were requested and I was told to wait. About thirty minutes later the very pleasant and polite woman return my documents and told me I was ok to go, no forms to fill out, nothing to sign, no additional paperwork handed to me, nothing, I really did wonder what happened while I waited, if anything. Anyway I was good to go and soon enough was headed North on a nice new tar road.

Saynshand was where spent my first night in Mongolia, I found a very nice hotel with a garage for the bike and a restaurant that served an excellent meal of fall off the bone braised steak, salad and potato wedges for me.

The following morning I continued North on the same nice new tar road to the town of Choyr, then turned South West towards Ih Gadzrig Chuluu Natural Reserve to view spectacular rock formations and camp a night out under the stars on the edge of the Govi Desert. This is also where I first experienced the real or what would become the normal standard of roads and road signage in Mongolia.








 
While camping out I also learnt that in Mongolia this time of year the sun sets about 9.45 pm and rises about 4.15 am, so I was up, packed and back on the dirt track highway early enough to reach the town of Mandalgovi for breakfast, before heading North again to Mongolia’s capital city Ulaanbaatar. My first task in UB was to apply for a Kazakhstan visa, my passport was submitted and received back without a hitch. My second task was to front up at Lotus Children’s Centre for six (6) days of thoroughly enjoyable volunteer work. Lotus Children’s Centre, located just out of UB in a quiet rural area provides a home to eighty (80) abandoned, orphaned or abused children between the ages of one (1) to eighteen (18), six (6) of which have mental and or physical disabilities, LCC provides the children with a safe environment, meals, accommodation and an education through local schools. While working at LCC I assembled Ger's for other volunteers to be accommodated in, mixed concrete using a shovel then poured the concrete using a steel bucket constructing a Ger ground slab, fixed door locks, fixed broken furniture, fixed gazebo handrails and laughed, ate meals and had a great time with other volunteers, staff and the children. One afternoon I caught a local bus back to UB with LLC staff, the bus stopped at a petrol station to refuel, twenty (20) litres of fuel was added to the bus tank costing 35,600 Togrog (T), and I had to laugh when the bus driver’s assistant handed over a wad of cash eighty (80) millimetres thick. Apart from the work, a highlight was being picked up one morning by an eleven (11) seater minivan with 6 adults and twenty nine (29) children on board, yes 35 people heading to the Lotus centre about one hour’s drive from UB. That afternoon on the return journey, all the children were attending a concert in UB so the minivan again had thirty aboard, and the bigger eighteen (18) seater bus had fifty (50) on board, I managed to squeeze on part of one (1) of a two (2) seat combination row with four children, so five (5) on two seats. I did not see or hear one (1) child complain about the squeeze, many slept throughout the journey, so with one child asleep on my shoulder and another perched on my knee I sat with one butt cheek on part of a seat with a numb leg from the child’s weigh and lack of movement and thought about how wonderful and uplifting my time at LCC had been.




 
After eleven (11) days in UB and with only a thirty (30) day visa, it was now time to pack and move on, my destination for the day was Harhorin, but not before a down pour of rain just as I reached slippery as ice black clay sections of road. Mishaps averted I made it to Harhorin in time for a quick visit to Erdened Zuu Khid Monastery before settling into a Ger camp for the night.

 

The following day I had a short easy ride to the town of Tsetserleg, spending the night at Fairfield Guesthouse. Owned and run by Australian Murray Benn and wife Elisabeth it provided me with the chance to converse in English and receive a little local knowledge from Murray. I also visited the local museum and the monastery high on a nearby hill overlooking the bright multi-coloured roof homes in Tsetserleg.

 

Back on the road again the following morning I rode good quality dirt roads and tracks as far as Tariat then turned North into Horgo Terhyn Tsagaan Nuur Nature Park. I walked up inactive volcano Khorgo Crater, and slept in a Ger at Khorgo Ger Camp overnight.




 

The next morning I set off, riding around Tsagaan Nuur (White Lake), then North crossing the odd river while riding dirt, sand and mud tracks all day using map and compass for navigation, stopping to check directions and say hello to locals including a family tending their Yak heard and again after crossing a river via a narrow log bridge. I continued through the town of Jargalant, got chased by big black woolly dogs and after a nine (9) hour ride day I was thankful to reach Moron, eat a meal and sink into a comfortable bed for the night.




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