Entering China also on the same morning are two groups of Aussies, Catherine and Simon driving a Toyota Prado to the UK to reunite with family before heading back home to Perth and with whom I had had previous email correspondence and also met two days earlier in Luang Namtha. The other group was a three vehicle convoy, consisting of two vintage cars, one built in 1920, the other in 1929, and a trusty 100 Series Landcruiser as support, owners and passengers were from Sydney and Perth.
It was a nice afternoon's China introductory ride past vast plantations of Rubber trees and smaller areas of rice paddies to the multi coloured neon light lit city of Jinghong for a one night stay.
The following morning a routine was set, 7.30 am breakfast, 8.30 am departure. On the road I ride through forested country side scattered with many tea plantations. Motorcycles are not permitted on China's network of Tollways, so while riding the National Road system I experience the small villages along the way, I also experience the ever changing road conditions of the somewhat neglected road system. The National road system varies from fantastic, new concrete and or tar surfaces, to something resembling an overused, worn out motocross track, no exaggeration. Travelling such varied road conditions at reduced speeds means long hours in the saddle, eight (8) or nine (9) hours to travel 240 - 320 kilometres becomes the norm day after day.
A late afternoon arrival in Ninger allows enough time for a walk around town to check out the sights.
Ninger's main attraction is easily found atop a nearby hill, after ascending 971 steps I admire the city view and the Pagoda and gardens atop of the hill before I descend the same 971 steps.
Before arriving at Dali, the first tourist town of my tour, I overnight in Jingdong after another long days ride. This part of China is mountainous, I ride winding roads, mountain passes and valley farmland to reach Dali, set in a valley at 2000 metres Dali is surrounded by 3000 metre peaks, providing a picturesque backdrop to the historic town, Three Pagodas and Lake Erhai. China is about experiencing the culture, history, tourist sites and the food, so within the Old Town the evening meal includes some of the array of fresh vegetables on offer and two frogs stir fried into a tasty but bonny dish.
Another day, another town, more mountainous roads are negotiated as I make my way to Lijiang, a town with a historic past, but as is pretty standard in China, the historic or Old Town is generally a rebuilt replica, purpose built for the tourists, containing new buildings replicating the old but containing junk tourist souvenirs and eateries, I find this a little disappointing.
The next day I ride to an attraction of natural beauty, no replication required, Tiger Leaping Gorge is a rushing river set between mountainous peaks, the higher peaks being snow capped. The road to the hotel for overnight accommodation is an experience on its own, tight switch back turns require careful negotiation on a fully packed adventure motorcycle but the spectacular view is worth the nail biting ride up the steep twists and turns.
The following morning a 90 minute return walk down into the gorge gets the blood pumping before riding on towards Shangri la.
On the way to Shangri la I stop at Baishuitai a little town in a gorgeous valley setting and visit the nearby small but nun less impressive Calcified Ponds.
Onwards to Shangri la the temperature drops to 11.5 degrees as I ride a 3700 metre mountain pass, having spent the last eight (8) months in the tropical zone with day time temperatures in the mid to high 30's and rarely dropping below 17 degrees day or night I have to stop and zip the liner into my ventilated motorcycle jacket for the first time on my travels, I am cold. Rain is also threatening and I am relieved to reach Shangri la and hotel accommodation only having received a very light sprinkling of rain, cold is one thing but cold and wet, no fun.
With the rain past and the temperature sitting at 13 degrees I observe what is a familiar sight across China, people dancing, practising Tai Chi or exercising in the Town Square, I also visit the local temple for the sun set view, then eat Yak meat hot pot for dinner.
Working in the construction industry I take an interest in local building techniques while on my travels, and with Shangri la having a large Tibetan community I am informed that the rammed earth exterior wall construction method is a common Tibetan form of construction and observe many home in the area under construction. The huge Tibetan Mastiff guard dog prevents closer inspection. Stone construction is less common, but with the glass atrium atop and timber windows, the stone contributes to the impressive looking home.
An additional overnight stop in Shangri la allows time for a visit to a nearby hill top Buddhist village and its many temples.
I also visit a Tibetan village just out of Shangri la experiencing the thick smoke and smells from pine tree branches and needles burning as offering at the temple. I am also invited into a family home to view the large timber posts and rammed earth construction up close and inspect the kitchen and walled court yard areas of the home.
My morning ride out of Shangri la is a chilly one with the temperature sitting on five (5) degrees, but the day soon warms as I ride to Yongsheng for an overnight stay. During an evening walk around town I photograph an interesting looking timber home and a barbeque tricycle complete with sausage on the hot plate.
Having ridden through Yunnan Province, Part 2 of China will be Sichuan Province, hopefully now I am out of China I will continue to have access to BlogSpot which was not available (blocked) in China.
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