European Transit - France

Sticking to the Mediterranean coast tollway I was caught up with quite a lot of vehicle traffic queuing behind a convoy of trucks carrying very wide and high transportable building sections on trailers, the trucks were driving in the centre of the road as they passed through the numerous tunnels along the road causing traffic to bank up.

After eventually passing the trucks a roadside sign indicated I had entered France as I continued the day’s 340 kilometre, five (5) hour journey. About 20 kilometres out of Nimes, my destination for the night steady rain set in.

I found a hotel in Nimes city centre then walked the streets in light rain checking out the beautiful old buildings and architecture.

 

The following morning under clear sky I got back on my motorcycle again and after one (1) night in France I headed for the border and crossed into yet another country on my adventure.



European Transit - Italy

The new day brought a new country, when the overnight ferry docked in Ancona Italy. I rode off the vehicle ferry about 08.15 am, eventually found the correct road out of town and settled in as best I could for the ride through the Italian country side. It was cold, the temperature moved between -1 and 3 degrees throughout the morning, there was snow on some of the surrounding hills and ice on shadowed sections of road, but at least the sun was shining in a clear blue sky.

My destination for the day was Sienna Tuscany, where I settled into hotel accommodation then set off on foot to view the “Old Town” sites. During the afternoon I visited Sienna Cathedral, Santa Maria Assunta, construction of the Cathedral started in 1215 and was completed in 1263, it is known as one of the most beautiful Cathedrals of Christendom with works by Michelangelo, Donatello, Bernini, Pinturicchio and Piccolomini. I then walk to and around Piazza de Campo, one of Europe’s greatest medieval squares and the site of Torre de Mangia a tower constructed from 1338 to 1348 and Palazzo Pubblico, a palace constructed in 1297.

 

The following morning I walked to the Basilica of San Domenico, while not too pretty from the outside, inside the church was a different story with huge columns, domed ceilings and beautiful sculptured marble figurines. I then climbed a spiral stair way to the terrace of the Facciatone on the Duomo Nuuovo and enjoyed a fine panoramic view over the city of Sienna and the outlaying Tuscan countryside. Then I walked back to Sienna Cathedral, one visit was just not enough to absorb the structure, the art work masterpieces, the huge marble columns, marble floor, marble fittings and fixtures, I strolled around then sat quietly and soaked in the beauty, it is truly spectacular.

 

Once again it was time to move on, I has an easy 103 kilometre ride though more Tuscan country side, I stretched the journey out to three (3) hours by riding slowly and stopping regularly, reaching Pisa mid-afternoon. I checked into a lovely renovated bed & breakfast then walked several blocks to Piazza del Miracoli, formally known as Piazza del Duomo (Cathedral Square), recognized as an important centre of European medieval art and one of the finest architectural complexes in the world. Considered a sacred area by its owner, the Catholic Church, the square is dominated by four great religious edifices, the Pisa Cathedral, the Pisa Baptistery, the Leaning Tower of Pisa, and the Camposanto Monumentale (Monumental Cemetery). The whole square declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1987. I walked up the Bell Towers spiral stair case noticing the lean as I circled the structure each time then enjoyed the great view from the top.

 

 

The next morning I walked back through Piazza del Miracoli, continuing on to Piazza dei Cavalieri, where the Palazzo della Carovana, with its impressive façade designed by Giorgio Vasari can be seen along with a fountain by Pietro Francavilla, then looped back to the B & B via the River Arno.

 

 

 

During the afternoon I rode my motorcycle to the nearby city and commune of Lucca, famous among other things for its intact Renaissance-era city walls. Once again I walked the streets viewing the sites including Duomo di San Martino (St Martins Cathedral), San Michele in Foro (St Michael’s Church), then a high vantage view of Lucca and its surroundings from atop Guinigi Tower.

 

 

The following morning while riding West I was buffeted by strong winds on the Mediterranean coast dual lane toll way, relief was short lived while passing through the roads numerous tunnels. My destination for a one (1) night stop over was Sanremo, a city on the Mediterranean coast of western Liguria in north-western Italy. Founded in Roman times and best known as a tourist destination on the Italian Riviera, it hosts numerous cultural events such as the Sanremo Music Festival and the Milan – San Remo cycling classic. The city is widely accepted as the origin of the five-card stud variant telesina.

 

Sanremo city centre features some beautiful Art Nouveau buildings including the Municipal Casino built in 1905, the Russian Orthodox Church also provides interesting viewing as does the boat harbour.



Being low season I was able to spend a night in a classic old four (4) Star hotel for a reasonable price, the room was old but still pretty good value, the high light of my stay was the four (4) course meal I enjoyed during the evening. First course was Smoked Ram Ham of Val Gardena with jam of Orange, then Walnuts & Conchiglie Pasta with Wild Game Ragout and Selection of Blueberries, followed by Baked Guinea Fowl with Cream of Artichokes in Sweet & Sour Sauce & Baked Potatoes, then Paradise Pie with Chocolate & Coconut also included was a glass of wine, a bottle of water and coffee, it was all delicious and very reasonably priced.

I have got to say Italy was an extremely pleasant surprise to me, the cathedrals I visited were extraordinary and beautiful, the old towns, cities and the country side of Tuscany was beautiful, the food was delicious, the locals are friendly and the language just rolls off the tongue (not mine) and is delightful to listen to, though I had very limited time to venture further into the country I really enjoyed Italy. So where to next on my adventure, keep checking in to find out.

European Transit - Croatia

I rode over a mountain range and crossed from Bosnia Hercegovina in to Croatia, the view of the deep blue coloured Adriatic Sea was spectacular. After a short ride from the border I reached Dubrovnik, in 1979 Dubrovnik joined the UNESCO list of World Heritage Sites and is among the ten (10) best preserved medieval walled cities in the world. After settling in to apartment accommodation I walked the Old City’s stone streets admiring the beautiful old buildings, harbour and wall.

 

Being on the coast the temperature was definitely warmer than I had experienced in recent weeks, though it was still cool with passing rain and showers during my two (2) day stay. I then continued north up the Croatian coast, turning off the main coast road and heading through the hills to the small town of Orebic, the final twenty five (25) kilometres of the ride were in the rain, the rain also persisted while I waited forty (40) minutes before a vehicle ferry transported me to the island of Korcula. I spent two days on the island, visiting the historic fortified town of Korcula, the old city is surrounded by walls, and the streets are arranged in a herringbone pattern allowing free circulation of air but protecting against strong winds. I walked from my accommodation along the water front road to the town's historic sites including the central Romanesque-Gothic Cathedral of St Mark (built from 1301 to 1806) and the 15th-century Franciscan monastery with a beautiful Venetian

Gothic cloister.

 

 

Tourist season was over so it was very quiet on the island so I rode back onto the ferry for the thirty (30) minute trip to the mainland, I then rode in the rain for three (3) hours to the city of Split. During the ride up the coast the speedo, tachometer and digital instrument panel on my motorcycle stopped functioning, it had been turning off and on while riding since Iran and now it had not come back on so I was keen to get it repaired or replaced. I was in luck, there was a BMW dealer in the city and the mechanic at Tomic & Co completed a very thorough diagnoses and determined I needed a replacement unit. The new instrument panel was ordered and while my bike was in the workshop I took the opportunity to purchase and have fitted a new front and rear tyre, I decided on a tread pattern that was a little more road orientated than I had been using, I’m sure to be encountering more rain in Europe and I will be riding on only tarred roads for the foreseeable future.

 

After several days visiting the sights in the Old City of Split I quizzed the BMW mechanic about the best route to continue my travels beyond Croatia, an avid motorcycle rider himself, he advised me that the road to northern Croatia was regularly closed at this time of year due to extremely high winds and my best option would be to leave split on a vehicle ferry.

 

 

After considering the mechanics advice I decided to visit a couple of towns just north of Split while waiting for my replacement instrument panel to arrive. First up I rode to the beautiful little town of Primosten, built on a hill and dominated by the parish church of St. George which was built in 1485 and restored in 1760 and sited close to the local graveyard, the town’s position provided a unique view that spread to the inlet, the sea and surrounding landscape.

 

 

I then rode back towards Split before turning off to visit the historic town and harbour of Trogir. Situated on a small island between the Croatian mainland and the island of Ciovo, since 1997 the historic centre of Trogir has been included in the UNESCO list of World Heritage Sites. I then rode back to Split and dropped my motorcycle at the BMW service department.

 

 

After nine (9) days in Split my motorcycle repair work was completed and it was time to move on, I had initially pre booked an apartment for a four (4) night stay in Split, but the replacement bike part took several days longer to reach the dealer so I asked the young lady managing the accommodation for a reduced rate during the remainder of my stay, she said she would check with her boss.

 

Packed and ready to leave I walked up to the reception office to settle my account, the young lady informed me that after speaking to her boss the two decided an early Christmas present was in order and gifted my additional five (5) night’s accommodation for free, a little shocked, all I could do was thank her for the generosity and wished her a very merry Christmas. I then rode to the city port and onto a vehicle ferry for an overnight voyage to continue my adventure.