Saturday, 10 October 2015

European Transit - Spain

My day started with easy relaxed riding for the first hour or so, then the wind began to blow. It was not a gentle constant breeze but intense gusts and with little in the way of cross wind breaks along the barren roadside it was very unpleasant. I moved on to the road verge at one stage to allow several trucks approaching quickly in my rear vision mirrors to pass and struggled to keep my motorcycle upright, very nearly being blown over, and not away from the approaching trucks but into their path. After several more hours riding I was very relieved to reach my destination for the day, Girona Spain.
 
Setting out on foot I walked the old town area, visiting the Cathedral, the town wall, then crossed the river that split the town via one bridge then back again via another, viewing and photographing the colourful buildings perched on the river edge.
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
Day light hours are now fewer during the winter months so it was a late start after the 7.50 am sun rise. I refuelled before moving on and reality of the cost of living in Spain set in with petrol being quite expensive, apart from Turkey I think refuelling the bike here was the most expensive I have encountered on my travels.
It was an uneventful five (5) hour ride to Castella de la Plana where while walking through a shopping mall I noticed that it was not only petrol that is expensive in Spain, clothing including Levi’s jeans for example are very expensive and I will now also have to for-go my occasional summer treat of a Magnum ice cream not only because of the cooler weather but because they too are expensive, I am very pleased to see my other favourite treat which can be enjoyed year round, Lindt Lindor chocolate balls are cheap.
Next stop on my ride down the east coast of Spain was Cartagena, and after a five (5) hour 365 kilometre ride that had me passing through numerous orange growing orchids I reached the pleasant sea side port city. During the days ride I became aware that the road felt a safer place to be riding a motorcycle, vehicle drivers allowed plenty of room when passing, stopped for pedestrians at crossings and appear to be more polite on the road.
Cartagena is home to one of Spain’s major Naval bases and knowing Spain has one of the oldest Naval forces in the world and several major historic achievements in navigation including voyages of Christopher Columbus and the first global circumnavigation by Magellan and Elcano I really enjoyed a visit to the Cartagena Naval Museum, home to many scale models of the Spanish ship fleet and other historic maritime items.
 
 
 
I planned an extended stay and a break off the bike for a while so one more five (5) hour 340 kilometre ride day had me at the Andalusian coast sea side town of Nerja where I settled into an apartment for about a seven week holiday over which time I would see out the northern hemisphere winter before moving on to Morocco then back into Spain, Portugal, France, the UK and beyond.
 
Nerja is a great little town situated in southern Spain with sea to the south and a snow capped mountain range to the north. Nerja is a very popular holiday destination for northern Europeans but my stay was out of season and very quiet. I spent my days walking through the town centre, and the paths along the beach side. There are people swimming in the ocean and sunning themselves while laid on the beach but it is way too cold for me to contemplate a swim with the day time temperature maxing at about 16 degrees.
Nerja has several Spanish language schools so I front up for two (2) weeks of intensive Spanish lessons, the teachers are entertaining and very experienced making the classes enjoyable but it is a hard slog learning a new language, definitely a long term proposition for me to become fluent in a second language. My fellow students are all lovely ladies from several parts of Europe holidaying in Spain, several whom already speak English as a second language, Yvonne from Sweden, Anne from Scotland, Stephanie from Ireland, Lene from Denmark, Monika and Renata from Switzerland, all are good fun and make my learning experience enjoyable.
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
My seven (7) weeks in Nerja passed quickly, I researched Morocco and planned my travels for the next month or two and beyond, readying myself to move on, I cleaned and repack all my tools, parts, odds and end in my panniers and I was rested and ready for new destinations, experiences and more riding. Unfortunately it was not to be, two (2) mornings before my schedule departure as I rose out of bed I felt a twinge in my lower back that proved to be more than the easily manipulated back into place pinched nerve I have experience about once every couple of years over the past twenty (20) years of my life. During the next three (3) extra weeks I spent in Nerja I was not moving freely, I could not bend over enough to put on my socks and boots, I walked slowly around town in thongs (flip flop) foot wear in the cold. I had many visits to a physiotherapist, had an MRI of my spine and consulted a specialist doctor for the results, to be told I had a bulging disc that required rest and rehabilitation or risk herniation and the prospect of surgery. With my Schengen Zone visa fast running out there was only one option left, end my adventure and return home.
 
So I am now back in Australia, rested and rehabilitated for a second time because after a couple of weeks of being home I thought I had recovered, jumped on a motorcycle and rode several hundred kilometres for a long weekend away only to be totally seized up again, barely able to walk and unable to ride home, having to leave the motorcycle at the destination and return home by alternative means in discomfort for more physiotherapy. I have now settled into full time work and reflect back on my travels over the past eighteen (18) months or so extremely happy to have been able to undertake such a fantastic travel experience. It was a great adventure, the people, the countries, the sights, the mountains, the coastal seas and waterways, the buildings and architecture, the experiences, all truly wonderful. While this adventure has ended, I am working hard on my fitness and will ease back into riding my motorcycle with short rides, building to longer rides in the hope that one day I will ride off again to complete what I set out to see and do. For now though the memories are fresh in my mind and bring a smile to my face every time one of my experiences jumps into my thoughts.

Wednesday, 25 February 2015

European Transit - France


Sticking to the Mediterranean coast tollway I was caught up with quite a lot of vehicle traffic queuing behind a convoy of trucks carrying very wide and high transportable building sections on trailers, the trucks were driving in the centre of the road as they passed through the numerous tunnels along the road causing traffic to bank up.
After eventually passing the trucks a roadside sign indicated I had entered France as I continued the day’s 340 kilometre, five (5) hour journey. About 20 kilometres out of Nimes, my destination for the night steady rain set in.

I found a hotel in Nimes city centre then walked the streets in light rain checking out the beautiful old buildings and architecture.



 

The following morning under clear sky I got back on my motorcycle again and after one (1) night in France I headed for the border and crossed into yet another country on my adventure.


Monday, 9 February 2015

European Transit - Italy


The new day brought a new country, when the overnight ferry docked in Ancona Italy. I rode off the vehicle ferry about 08.15 am, eventually found the correct road out of town and settled in as best I could for the ride through the Italian country side. It was cold, the temperature moved between -1 and 3 degrees throughout the morning, there was snow on some of the surrounding hills and ice on shadowed sections of road, but at least the sun was shining in a clear blue sky.
My destination for the day was Sienna Tuscany, where I settled into hotel accommodation then set off on foot to view the “Old Town” sites. During the afternoon I visited Sienna Cathedral, Santa Maria Assunta, construction of the Cathedral started in 1215 and was completed in 1263, it is known as one of the most beautiful Cathedrals of Christendom with works by Michelangelo, Donatello, Bernini, Pinturicchio and Piccolomini. I then walk to and around Piazza de Campo, one of Europe’s greatest medieval squares and the site of Torre de Mangia a tower constructed from 1338 to 1348 and Palazzo Pubblico, a palace constructed in 1297.


 

The following morning I walked to the Basilica of San Domenico, while not too pretty from the outside, inside the church was a different story with huge columns, domed ceilings and beautiful sculptured marble figurines. I then climbed a spiral stair way to the terrace of the Facciatone on the Duomo Nuuovo and enjoyed a fine panoramic view over the city of Sienna and the outlaying Tuscan countryside. Then I walked back to Sienna Cathedral, one visit was just not enough to absorb the structure, the art work masterpieces, the huge marble columns, marble floor, marble fittings and fixtures, I strolled around then sat quietly and soaked in the beauty, it is truly spectacular.









 
Once again it was time to move on, I has an easy 103 kilometre ride though more Tuscan country side, I stretched the journey out to three (3) hours by riding slowly and stopping regularly, reaching Pisa mid-afternoon. I checked into a lovely renovated bed & breakfast then walked several blocks to Piazza del Miracoli, formally known as Piazza del Duomo (Cathedral Square), recognized as an important centre of European medieval art and one of the finest architectural complexes in the world. Considered a sacred area by its owner, the Catholic Church, the square is dominated by four great religious edifices, the Pisa Cathedral, the Pisa Baptistery, the Leaning Tower of Pisa, and the Camposanto Monumentale (Monumental Cemetery). The whole square declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1987. I walked up the Bell Towers spiral stair case noticing the lean as I circled the structure each time then enjoyed the great view from the top.
 






 
The next morning I walked back through Piazza del Miracoli, continuing on to Piazza dei Cavalieri, where the Palazzo della Carovana, with its impressive façade designed by Giorgio Vasari can be seen along with a fountain by Pietro Francavilla, then looped back to the B & B via the River Arno.
 
 
 

During the afternoon I rode my motorcycle to the nearby city and commune of Lucca, famous among other things for its intact Renaissance-era city walls. Once again I walked the streets viewing the sites including Duomo di San Martino (St Martins Cathedral), San Michele in Foro (St Michael’s Church), then a high vantage view of Lucca and its surroundings from atop Guinigi Tower.
 




 
The following morning while riding West I was buffeted by strong winds on the Mediterranean coast dual lane toll way, relief was short lived while passing through the roads numerous tunnels. My destination for a one (1) night stop over was Sanremo, a city on the Mediterranean coast of western Liguria in north-western Italy. Founded in Roman times and best known as a tourist destination on the Italian Riviera, it hosts numerous cultural events such as the Sanremo Music Festival and the Milan – San Remo cycling classic. The city is widely accepted as the origin of the five-card stud variant telesina.
 
Sanremo city centre features some beautiful Art Nouveau buildings including the Municipal Casino built in 1905, the Russian Orthodox Church also provides interesting viewing as does the boat harbour.





Being low season I was able to spend a night in a classic old four (4) Star hotel for a reasonable price, the room was old but still pretty good value, the high light of my stay was the four (4) course meal I enjoyed during the evening. First course was Smoked Ram Ham of Val Gardena with jam of Orange, then Walnuts & Conchiglie Pasta with Wild Game Ragout and Selection of Blueberries, followed by Baked Guinea Fowl with Cream of Artichokes in Sweet & Sour Sauce & Baked Potatoes, then Paradise Pie with Chocolate & Coconut also included was a glass of wine, a bottle of water and coffee, it was all delicious and very reasonably priced.

I have got to say Italy was an extremely pleasant surprise to me, the cathedrals I visited were extraordinary and beautiful, the old towns, cities and the country side of Tuscany was beautiful, the food was delicious, the locals are friendly and the language just rolls off the tongue (not mine) and is delightful to listen to, though I had very limited time to venture further into the country I really enjoyed Italy. So where to next on my adventure, keep checking in to find out.